Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
